If your keyboard is hot-swappable, you change switches by removing the keycap, gripping the switch with a switch puller, pulling it straight up and pressing a new switch with straight pins into the same socket; if the board is soldered, you must desolder each switch, which takes tools and experience and can ruin the board if done badly.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
Step 0: Find Out Which Type You Have
Everything depends on the board type. Look at the manufacturer’s product page or manual for the words “hot-swappable” or “hot-swap sockets.” You can also pull off one keycap and look at the switch: on a hot-swap board the switch sits in a small socket that rises slightly from the circuit board, while on a soldered board the pins pass through the board and show solder joints on the underside. Many budget and office keyboards are soldered, and many enthusiast gaming boards are hot-swappable.
Modifying a keyboard can void its warranty depending on the maker. Read the warranty terms first, and note that this guide is general: the exact process for opening a case differs between models, so follow the keyboard maker’s manual where it gives specific steps.
What You Need
- A keycap puller (wire or ring style).
- A switch puller with two prongs. Some boards ship with a combined keycap and switch puller.
- Replacement switches that match the keyboard’s socket type, usually 3-pin or 5-pin MX-style.
- Tweezers or small pliers for straightening a bent pin.
- For soldered boards only: a soldering iron, a desoldering pump or wick, solder, and a screwdriver to open the case.
How to Change Switches on a Hot-Swap Keyboard
- Unplug the keyboard. Disconnect the USB cable, or switch off a wireless board, before touching anything.
- Remove the keycap. Slide the keycap puller under opposite sides of the cap, then pull straight up. Take it slowly on wide keys with stabilizers.
- Position the switch puller. Slip the two prongs into the notches on opposite sides of the switch housing. Squeeze the puller so both retention clips release together.
- Pull the switch straight up. Avoid twisting. If it sticks, wiggle it gently side to side while pulling.
- Inspect the new switch. Look at each pin. Straighten any bent pin with tweezers before installing it. A bent pin that misses its socket is a common reason a swapped switch does not work.
- Align and press down. Match the pins to the holes and push the switch straight down until the clips click into the plate. Do not force it; a misaligned press can damage the socket.
- Refit the keycap. Press it onto the stem.
- Test. Plug the keyboard in and press the new key in a key tester or text field to confirm it registers.
How to Change Switches on a Soldered Keyboard
This method is only suitable if you have soldering experience. Mistakes can lift pads off the board and destroy it.
- Unplug the keyboard and remove all the keycaps.
- Open the case following the maker’s instructions and separate the circuit board from the case. Disconnect any battery or ribbon connector with care.
- Heat one solder joint for a few seconds, remove the solder with a desoldering pump or wick, and repeat for the second pin of that switch.
- Pull the old switch free. If it resists, one of the joints still holds solder; do not force it.
- Insert the new switch, making sure it sits flat against the plate, then solder both pins.
- Reassemble the board and test before refitting every keycap.
Many people choose to replace the whole keyboard, or buy a hot-swap board, rather than learn desoldering for a few keys.
Quick-Reference Table
| Item | Hot-swap board | Soldered board |
|---|---|---|
| Tools | Keycap puller, switch puller | Soldering iron, desoldering pump, solder, screwdriver |
| Difficulty | Beginner | Advanced |
| Main risk | Bent pins, damaged socket | Lifted pads, heat damage |
| Time per switch | Under a minute | Several minutes |
| Reversible | Yes | Harder, depends on joint quality |
| Warranty | Usually unaffected by swapping, check the terms | May be voided by opening the case |
Choosing Replacement Switches
Switches generally come in three feel groups: linear (smooth), tactile (a bump on press) and clicky (a bump with an audible click). Gamers often favor light linear switches for fast repeated presses, while typists often prefer tactile ones. Magnetic Hall-effect switches use a different design and require a board built for them, so they are not interchangeable with standard mechanical switches.
Also check pin count. Five-pin switches add two plastic locating pins and fit most hot-swap boards that accept them, while some boards support only three-pin switches. If a board only has holes for three pins, trim the extra plastic pins only if the maker or switch maker says that is acceptable.
Common Mistakes
- Pulling at an angle. This bends pins and can crack the socket. Pull straight up.
- Pressing a switch with bent pins. Always inspect first.
- Buying incompatible switches. Confirm the socket type and that the switch is not a proprietary design.
- Forgetting stabilizers. Large keys such as the space bar and Enter use stabilizers, and the switch beside them must be seated correctly.
- Skipping the test. Press every changed key before buttoning up the case.
When Not to Do It
Skip the swap if the keyboard is under warranty and the maker says opening it voids coverage, if it is soldered and you have no soldering tools, or if the problem is actually a stuck keycap, debris or a software setting. A key that fails after a swap may also point to a damaged socket, in which case contact the maker rather than forcing more switches into it.
After the Swap: Settings and Care
Once new switches are in, test each one with a keyboard tester page or a text field. If you changed to lighter switches, you may notice more accidental presses at first, so give yourself a few days to adjust. Some boards let you reprogram keys or adjust actuation settings through the maker’s software, but available options depend on the model and firmware, so consult the manual. Keep the removed switches in a small container in case you want to return to the original feel. If the board shows ghosting or double inputs after the swap, power it down, reseat the affected switch and confirm that the pins are straight before trying again.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I change switches on any mechanical keyboard?
No. Only hot-swap boards accept new switches without soldering. Soldered boards need desoldering, and membrane keyboards do not use replaceable switches at all.
Do I need to turn off the keyboard before swapping switches?
Yes. Unplug the cable or power off a wireless board. Some hot-swap boards can be damaged if they are powered while switches are removed.
Can I mix different switches on one board?
Generally yes, as long as they fit the same socket type. Some people mix linear and tactile switches for different keys, such as using tactile switches on the keys they press most.
Why does my new switch not register?
A bent pin that missed its socket is the most common cause. Remove the switch, straighten the pin and reseat it. If it still fails, try a different switch in the same socket to check whether the socket is faulty.
Should I lubricate switches while I am at it?
That is optional and separate. Lubing changes the sound and feel but requires opening each switch, and it can affect warranty on the switches. Beginners often swap first and consider lubing later.
